...is going well.
Thank god. I don't know what i'd do if it was going shit.
Just had my first proper session (i'll say first because the one I had last week was SO BAD that it's not worth considering) back after taking 5 days out of climbing.
FIVE DAYS!
It was bloody hard...to anybody who is a none climber that may be reading this, it's a bloody tough thing to do. From training 4 or 5 night's a week to stopping altogether was hard work mentally and physically. My body felt funny, like I needed to "pull on stuff", however I'd been assured that NOT "pulling on stuff" would help in the long run. Muscles need time to recover, as do tendons, ligaments ... blah blah blah. My head was going climb crazy ... to the point where I was sussing out a line through the ceiling of the Tog24 Bowness shop that I was working in last Friday. (I kid thee not...it was going to be a beauty and I reckon it would go at ... pfft at least V16 because really, THERE ARE NO HOLDS, it's a shop.
During my week of respite, relaxation and recovery I didn't stop altogether. Obviously I had to work (hence a little stint at Bowness plus the usual in Kendal) and also keep active.
I didn't want to halt all physical activity. This would have been B.A.D.
Well intentioned, I continued my early morning runs with Mr. Hull. First morning of the rest ... pushing hard...strained (quite badly) something inside my left shoulder blade whilst doing tricep dips on a bench waiting for Tom to catch up. I was angry, and injured. In retrospect, it was probably the best time to acquire said niggle and probably a little blessing in disguise. It meant that I was VERY careful with my back for the whole week. I paid extra attention to it when stretching it out after any excersise, and I didn't push myself too hard during my period of rest. My plan for another three further runs was altered, and changed to one jog and two long brisk walks...good. On top of all that, yoga (utilising my lovely new mat and the very helpful Esther Ekhardt - see yogatic.com) every day.
Yoga has really helped me so far, in terms of my flexibility I feel i've made a big improvement, my posture is better, my core is stronger and I feel more relaxed and centered generally. More of this please!
Anyway, as you will have gathered, I was keen to get back on it, and after one session, that can only be described as APPALING, it was time to get back on it and re-commence the training.
Tonight was my first session back, I was keen to get warm and then jump straight back onto a f7c that I'd been trying before my little break. I'd only had two sessions on it, which equated to probably 5 good attempts. I was conscious that my redpoint tactics weren't great but still...I've got a week before the route is changed and have been uber keen to get it done.
I hadn't done the bottom section clean, and I'd done most of the top roof section apart from the last two moves (which, it has to be said are THE HARDEST moves on the route and my god, they are hard).
SO...reasonably warmed up and very fresh (with a large portion of keen served on the side) I donned the power vest and jumped on it. Trusty Matt Harris was at the ready giving the belay of his life...off I went.
FUCK ME...the time off must have helped. The first section went clean, which I was VERY chuffed with. Especially the lower crux which is a reasonably long pop up from an average fingery hold onto a not very good one. I pushed through all of the moves up until the good hold (which is supposed to be a rest), a positive "jug" (of sorts) which I managed to slip off...and take the fall. Damn. I was pleased though. PROGRESS HAD BEEN MADE.
I decided to miss the bottom section out for the rest of the session and get to working the roof (thanks for the nudge Rob). I managed to do the penultimate moves... after working out the way that suits me best I'm confident that on my next session I'm going to have the roof dialed. Then it's time for the redpoint attempt...
I'm writing this post session, feeling knackered, achey and sleepy to name but a few things... (Still got chalk under the finger nails ... and wedged into the callouses, joy.)
Up early to go swimming with Mr. Hull, and then we'll see what the day brings. Definitley some yoga, probably some bouldering.
Got to get stronger. Got to keep pushing my grade.
Got to finish that route. 7c, watch out.
Liam.
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