Phantom Zone

...is going to get sent.

I popped over to Chapel Head again last night with Sally (of the Wheatley variety) and jumped on Interstellar Overdrive to warm up. 

After a good preliminary burn and whilst sorting gear for the route I looked up to see the evening sun dropping slowly in the sky, illuminating the intimidating line of choice in a flood of gold and amber.

What a brute. 

I truly wish I could continue with a romanticized account of how I 'just felt right' and got on the route, sending it first go on my second visit. But let's be honest here ... I didn't. In fact the truth is, I'm not strong enough ... yet.

Anyway, with the last of the daylight hours dwindling I quickly clip-sticked my way to the top and upon threading the anchor I began to recall the moves that I had memorised from my previous session, particularly the crux; A difficult pop from two poor, crimpy side-pulls up to a sharp and not particularly good tufa, all on typically marginal footholds. Lovely.

My first top-rope attempt involved looking at each individual move and then working it to find the best body positions and hold combinations. Throroughly knackered at the anchor I came down for a rest giving Sally the chance to have a go at working her magic on the thing ... she did very-bloody-well, doing pretty much every move AND on her first visit. That girl is too strong for her own good.

A few swigs on my 'generic energy drink', an exchange of banter and a squeeze or two of the warm-up putty and I was feeling ready for a second go. My goal this time was to link up as many moves as possible using the sequence that I had worked out. 

It felt awesome. Awesomely hard, but awesome all the same. 

The moves are right at the top end of my ability on rock at the minute, writing this now I can feel my fingers and elbows aching. It's such a powerful sequence, mostly on poor holds; Fingery pinches, cheese-grater-style tufas, gnarly crimps and a whole host of polished slippiness to keep your feet entertained.

I have no qualms in saying that I let out involuntary power screams on near enough every move.

Second session over, equalling four 'attempts' in total and i've managed to stick every single hold and combine every move with the one above and below it ( ... in theory that means I have worked each part of the sequence correctly, maybe). Now all I need to do is head back down there and get on it again ... and again ... until I can do the sequence in its entirety without my foot slipping off a hold and definitely without having to whimper a feeble "take" when my fingers feel like explosion is imminent as I urge them to hang on for one more second.

Regardless of my shortcomings so far I am extremely positive about Phantom Zone. I genuienly feel like it'll go with just a couple more sessions of practice and a healthy dose of power endurance training on the side.

Leading this route is pretty much the main thing on my mind at the minute and I can't wait to get it clean. 

They say that patience is a virtue ... I don't recollect claiming to be virtuos?

ps. I promise to get some pictures on here soon!

Taking heed.

When I was writing my blog yesterday I was thinking of all the different pieces of advice that I have been given by so many people so far on this epic of journey to hit 8a.

During yesterdays session a certain Mr. Rob Knight, Mr. Tom Hull and I had the following exchange after a discussion on redpoint tactics:

ME: "Tom, on belay if you hold me at the rest I'm trying the roof section backwards. Rob said I should try it that way and he's a legend."
ROB: "I'm not a legend, i've just been around longer than you have."

Seemingly a pretty boring exchange but on reflection it aroused several different thoughts...

Rob Knight IS NOT a legend (in a climbing sense anyway). HE IS bloody strong. HE HAS been around longer than I have and HE HAS a lot of experience indoors and outdoors and with this experience he holds a plethora of tips and good advice.

The same can be said for many of my peers on the 'climbing scene'.

Tips I have recieved range from simple, broad suggestions like 'You should take a rest week.' (F. WOOD, T. HULL, B. SCRAGGS ... in fact, probably 90% of the people I chat/climb with recommended this, so thanks) to the miniscule details like, 'Liam, twist your toe in on that heel hook at the top' (thanks T. HULL) ... which led to my first successful f7a+ redpoint lead.

I've always watched in awe as much stronger climbers powered up routes that I could only dream of getting on (routes which I am now trying) ... I'm still watching, but instead of just gawping and being amazed, i'm observing. Absorbing every bit of information that I can. I want to know how they're doing it, what they're doing different, each intricate movement and detail. I'm listening to those little nuggets of information and utilising them every time I touch a hold.

With each and every bit of encouragement, each tiny prescription and act of advocacy I am learning to focus and channel it, harnessing what other people are offering and learning to use it in my own productive way.

When I finish writing this I'm going to be heading out to do some bouldering and putting it all to good use.

Before I go,

I want to say a huge thank you to everyone that has helped so far, you may not even know that you have helped if I have just been stood watching you while you were crushing a route. THANKS.

I also want to put it out there that we should not take the advice and information that we get from those stronger or more experienced than us for granted. Take what you can get and use it well.

Take heed.

Liam.

TRAINING...

...is going well.

Thank god. I don't know what i'd do if it was going shit.
Just had my first proper session (i'll say first because the one I had last week was SO BAD that it's not worth considering) back after taking 5 days out of climbing.

FIVE DAYS!

It was bloody hard...to anybody who is a none climber that may be reading this, it's a bloody tough thing to do. From training 4 or 5 night's a week to stopping altogether was hard work mentally and physically. My body felt funny, like I needed to "pull on stuff", however I'd been assured that NOT "pulling on stuff" would help in the long run. Muscles need time to recover, as do tendons, ligaments ... blah blah blah. My head was going climb crazy ... to the point where I was sussing out a line through the ceiling of the Tog24 Bowness shop that I was working in last Friday. (I kid thee not...it was going to be a beauty and I reckon it would go at ... pfft at least V16 because really, THERE ARE NO HOLDS, it's a shop.

During my week of respite, relaxation and recovery I didn't stop altogether. Obviously I had to work (hence a little stint at Bowness plus the usual in Kendal) and also keep active.

I didn't want to halt all physical activity. This would have been B.A.D.

Well intentioned, I continued my early morning runs with Mr. Hull. First morning of the rest ... pushing hard...strained (quite badly) something inside my left shoulder blade whilst doing tricep dips on a bench waiting for Tom to catch up. I was angry, and injured. In retrospect, it was probably the best time to acquire said niggle and probably a little blessing in disguise. It meant that I was VERY careful with my back for the whole week. I paid extra attention to it when stretching it out after any excersise, and I didn't push myself too hard during my period of rest. My plan for another three further runs was altered, and changed to one jog and two long brisk walks...good. On top of all that, yoga (utilising my lovely new mat and the very helpful Esther Ekhardt - see yogatic.com) every day.

Yoga has really helped me so far, in terms of my flexibility I feel i've made a big improvement, my posture is better, my core is stronger and I feel more relaxed and centered generally. More of this please!

Anyway, as you will have gathered, I was keen to get back on it, and after one session, that can only be described as APPALING, it was time to get back on it and re-commence the training.

Tonight was my first session back, I was keen to get warm and then jump straight back onto a f7c that I'd been trying before my little break. I'd only had two sessions on it, which equated to probably 5 good attempts. I was conscious that my redpoint tactics weren't great but still...I've got a week before the route is changed and have been uber keen to get it done.
I hadn't done the bottom section clean, and I'd done most of the top roof section apart from the last two moves (which, it has to be said are THE HARDEST moves on the route and my god, they are hard).

SO...reasonably warmed up and very fresh (with a large portion of keen served on the side) I donned the power vest and jumped on it. Trusty Matt Harris was at the ready giving the belay of his life...off I went.

FUCK ME...the time off must have helped. The first section went clean, which I was VERY chuffed with. Especially the lower crux which is a reasonably long pop up from an average fingery hold onto a not very good one. I pushed through all of the moves up until the good hold (which is supposed to be a rest), a positive "jug" (of sorts) which I managed to slip off...and take the fall. Damn. I was pleased though. PROGRESS HAD BEEN MADE.

I decided to miss the bottom section out for the rest of the session and get to working the roof (thanks for the nudge Rob). I managed to do the penultimate moves... after working out the way that suits me best I'm confident that on my next session I'm going to have the roof dialed. Then it's time for the redpoint attempt...

I'm writing this post session, feeling knackered, achey and sleepy to name but a few things... (Still got chalk under the finger nails ... and wedged into the callouses, joy.)

Up early to go swimming with Mr. Hull, and then we'll see what the day brings. Definitley some yoga, probably some bouldering.

Got to get stronger. Got to keep pushing my grade.

Got to finish that route. 7c, watch out.


Liam.