Tuesday 2 November 2010

CLIMBING: 2011

The calender is finally available for purchase.

I've looked through it and it is stunning, featuring some truly inspriring imagery. It also has a particularly nice cover shot as well ... if I may say so myself.

Check out the links below to photographer Keith Sharples' website.




Also, please accept my most sincere apologies for the lack of blogging recently, i've been a terribly busy bee, what with working and training. Lots to come soon.

Wednesday 8 September 2010

PHANTOM ZONE

Finally did it. After a lot of hard work, I finally clipped the chains on Phantom Zone f7b+.

I headed down there on Monday afternoon with Phil Vickers and Ellie Leighfield, with the ensuing bad weather and the shorter nights drawing in I was convinced that this would be my final attempt.

On arriving at the crag we realised that both Phil and Ellie had forgotten their harnesses, I kid you not?! What a joke. Phil popped back to the car (serves him bloody right) and managed to return with a single harness for them to share. I hopped on Interstellar Overdrive to warm up and after sending that for the millionth time this season I swung accross and put the clips in on P.Z.

Phil and then Ellie both had a burn on Interstellar Overdrive which is a particularly hard route to read and is even harder to onsight.

Fully rested and fully psyched my turn came to get on P.Z. The moves firmly entrenched into the forefront of my mind (I have dreamed about it on numerous occassions since trying it for the first time four weeks ago) I tied in, squeaked my shoes and took a final deep breath.

My memory of the climbing is a big blur of power screams and crushing the life out of each horrible hold, pulling through each move up to the last crux sequence.

I can then distinctly remember squeezing the two horrible, crimpy side-pulls, setting up for the last hard move,

... deep breath, left foot on rubbery smear out right, right foot is good, BREATHE, sink down on the holds, look at the hold, I CAN stick it, BREATHE, throw right hand, aim high on the cheese grater tufa, SQUEEZE! ... 

As I realised I'd stuck the hold I could feel the chain above me, beckoning me closer, just three more moves.
I was so psyched,

... I'm going to do this, come on, left foot on the hidden hold, left hand up to the shallow gaston edge, balance, squeeze the hold, balance, BREATHE, come on, fuck the clip, up to the jug, come on, lunge, YES, come on, I'm going to do this, make the clip, up to the final tufa, COME ON this is the last move, clip the chains. YES! ...

And that was it, all over, Phantom Zone, ticked. The smile on my face would have made a Cheshire Cat look miserable. Butterflies in my stomach, I lowered back to the ground. Sitting at the bottom of the route I looked back up at the holds ... I'd done it. It was mine. I was leaving victorious.

I would like to take this oppurtunity to thank Chris Rabone for the initial belays on the route, Sally Wheatley for belaying me for a session on it, Rin Colombi for  belaying me on my first and second lead attempt, Ben, Leo and Chris for psyching me up to just go for it, Jon Freeman for belaying me on my third and fourth lead attempt and finally to Phil for belaying me on the fifth and final redpoint and Ellie for her encouragement. 

Also a big thank you to Amy, for not killing me every time I talked about the route or did the moves in my sleep. I love you.

Now for the next big project...

Friday 3 September 2010

CLIMBER: 2011

Bank Holiday Monday was not only one of the finest days (weather-wise) that the Lake District has ever seen but it also saw a wee visit from esteemed climbing photographer and writer Keith Sharples. Keith was in the area to get a few shots for his famous climbing calender (released annually...go figure?!) CLIMBER:2011 (the year changes annually as well...complicated stuff!) and through a UKC comp had got in touch with me as the 'subject' for his shots.

I don't have photos yet, but they should be on Keiths website / UKC soon enough.

Keith, his friend Rae (I think that is how I'm supposed to spell it), Phil Vickers and I all headed out super early to Carrock Fell to make the most of the stunning conditions. After shooting the super classic Boardman's Arete and trying a couple of other problems we got a wriggle on and headed over to St. Bees.

Now I have never been to St. Bees before. Have you? If you are saying no to this...go, NOW. What a stunning spot. Fantastic climbing. We shot for a while on a sport route called Dreaming of Red Rocks which is a three star f7a+ and the uber classic of the crag. NOTE: If it's sunny, it is bloody hot! I was sweating like a nun in a cucumber field (We all know nuns hate cucumbers. Right?!)

Then as it started to cool a little we nipped round the corner to St. Bees North and bouldered until our fingers bled and the light fled. The rock is fantastic, the problems superb, from Font 3 all the way through to Font 8a. There is something for anyone that wants to climb.

As soon as I get more info/photo's I'll post them on here.
Oh...by the way, Phantom Zone is within an inch of it's life. I am SO UNBELIEVABLY CLOSE. Very almost did it this Thursday night on a quick hit there with Jon Freeman. So excited to get it done.

Love to you people.


Wednesday 18 August 2010

Phantom Zone

...is going to get sent.

I popped over to Chapel Head again last night with Sally (of the Wheatley variety) and jumped on Interstellar Overdrive to warm up. 

After a good preliminary burn and whilst sorting gear for the route I looked up to see the evening sun dropping slowly in the sky, illuminating the intimidating line of choice in a flood of gold and amber.

What a brute. 

I truly wish I could continue with a romanticized account of how I 'just felt right' and got on the route, sending it first go on my second visit. But let's be honest here ... I didn't. In fact the truth is, I'm not strong enough ... yet.

Anyway, with the last of the daylight hours dwindling I quickly clip-sticked my way to the top and upon threading the anchor I began to recall the moves that I had memorised from my previous session, particularly the crux; A difficult pop from two poor, crimpy side-pulls up to a sharp and not particularly good tufa, all on typically marginal footholds. Lovely.
My first top-rope attempt involved looking at each individual move and then working it to find the best body positions and hold combinations. Throroughly knackered at the anchor I came down for a rest giving Sally the chance to have a go at working her magic on the thing ... she did very-bloody-well, doing pretty much every move AND on her first visit. That girl is too strong for her own good.

A few swigs on my 'generic energy drink', an exchange of banter and a squeeze or two of the warm-up putty and I was feeling ready for a second go. My goal this time was to link up as many moves as possible using the sequence that I had worked out. 

It felt awesome. Awesomely hard, but awesome all the same. 

The moves are right at the top end of my ability on rock at the minute, writing this now I can feel my fingers and elbows aching. It's such a powerful sequence, mostly on poor holds; Fingery pinches, cheese-grater-style tufas, gnarly crimps and a whole host of polished slippiness to keep your feet entertained.

I have no qualms in saying that I let out involuntary power screams on near enough every move.

Second session over, equalling four 'attempts' in total and i've managed to stick every single hold and combine every move with the one above and below it ( ... in theory that means I have worked each part of the sequence correctly, maybe). Now all I need to do is head back down there and get on it again ... and again ... until I can do the sequence in its entirety without my foot slipping off a hold and definitely without having to whimper a feeble "take" when my fingers feel like explosion is imminent as I urge them to hang on for one more second.

Regardless of my shortcomings so far I am extremely positive about Phantom Zone. I genuienly feel like it'll go with just a couple more sessions of practice and a healthy dose of power endurance training on the side.

Leading this route is pretty much the main thing on my mind at the minute and I can't wait to get it clean. 

They say that patience is a virtue ... I don't recollect claiming to be virtuos?


ps. I promise to get some pictures on here soon!



Tuesday 17 August 2010

Chapel Head

...the bird ban is still off and the crag is still dry. Hallelujah!

Tonight I'll be making another trip down to Chapel Head, in fact my fourth in the last 6 days.

It's bloody fantastic down there. There's a wealth of routes to suit many ... not all (hell ... what do you want me to do...lie?!).

I don't have any pictures just yet but all being well I'll get some tonight when I have me second session on my project ... Phantom Zone. Beautifully crafted, short and hard...Paul Ingham created a beauty when he sent this in 1986.

I'm going to leave it there for now...not being one to bore you with all the details...but if you do manage to get down there then be sure to check out:

Tufa King Hard, Interstellar Overdrive, Shades of Mediocrity, Electric Warrior and most of all Wargames (Super - uber classic of the crag). 

Let's be honest ... It's all a whole lot prettier if there are photo's involved.


Happy climbing ...

Tuesday 27 July 2010

Sunday 25 July 2010

Have you ever...

...been bouldering at Warton? No? Then go. Now. It's great. I took a wee trip down there recently with Mr. Paul Mason and we had a ball.

Warton is found about half way between Carnforth and Yealand Conyers.

Parking is about 15-30 minutes walk (depending on how good your navigational skills are and if you decided to pack your machete) from the bouldering action and with four main areas there's plenty to go at. 

I'm keeping this short and sweet, but ... in summary:
Warton has got problems (and routes if you're that way inclined) from easy V0/Font 3a plods to horribly stiff V12/Font 8a+ traverses. If you're operating anywhere between those grades ... then there are a couple of good sessions worth of bouldering to be had. If you get sketched out by highball problems then take a couple of good spotters and two or three pads, the problems aren't ever much more than 5m in height and usually have juggy rails at the top. 

Getting my gurn on. Hoodoo People Font 6c.
Paul and I thoroughly enjoyed Warton and there are a few problems down there that we have unfinished business with so we'll defnitely be heading back soon. 

Climb safe. Peace.

Wednesday 21 July 2010

Oh dear...

...once again it has been too long.


My excuse...I've been in Zanzibar doing chartiable things.


GOOD NEWS: I did manage to squeeze a bit of climbing in.


Photo's to follow soon...

OH. I almost forgot. Check out my new blog, (CLICK HERE) itis full of ranting and stuff. Yey.

Sunday 2 May 2010

It's been too long...

Apologies for the severe tardiness in blogging over the past few weeks. Too much climbing to be had.
Blog-tastic news and photo's coming soon...

Thursday 15 April 2010

Nowt but a lal bit of ash in't'air like...

MOTHER NATURE is doing her utmost to prevent my little sister, Liana Lonsdale from continuing her world trip. 

With the current eruption of the volcano in the Icelandic area of Eyjafjallajoekull (Super cool name eh...? They pronounce it 'Eyjagofuckyourself')  her flight has been grounded and she (along with the rest of the family including myself) is now stuck in a hotel room (in the loosest sense of the word...this place sucks balls) waiting to hear if the flight will be re-scheduled or if we have to drive back up north (where we really belong) and wait it out up there.

What better way than to predict the forecast for the next few days than use the trusty...WESTMERIAN BAROMETER.

So here is the verdict:

String is covered in volcano dust and lava...

 

 
 Nowt but a lal bit of ash in't'air like. 



Nowt but a lal bit of lava in't'air like.



Nowt but a lal bit of ... oh shit that's a volcanic eruption. Do one...


If you are completely confused by what the hell the  WESTMERIAN BAROMETER is then you can click on those words ... WESTMERIAN BAROMETER and read the original blog which may or may not explain everything.

Liam.

Friday 12 March 2010

GEAR TEST: HT HORNET HPi

So...Tom Hull and I recently returned from a climbing trip to the world famous El Chorro gorge, Andalucia, Spain.
Whilst we were there solely (pardon the pun) to climb as many routes in two weeks as we could. I had been given a sneaky side mission by the kind fellows from Hi-Tec Sports UK to write a review for a pair of their "Hornet HPi" shoes. After the two weeks of pounding they got whilst we were out there, I can tell you now that they were really put through their paces (quite literally).

THE SHOE.
I'm not going to give you a long list of all the features for the shoe, you can look at the Hi-Tec website for that (Click here to see the full spec...) I simply want to tell about my personal experience with the shoe; What I thought was good and bad, what works and what doesn't and why YOU might consider getting hold of a pair for yourself.

WHY THE HORNET HPi?
When I was talking with Hi-Tec about a shoe to take to El Chorro I gave them a rough idea of what we were expecting in terms of conditions; dry and warm, with potential for long, dusty and rocky walk-ins. 

I was looking for a trainer/approach shoe rather than a boot. I wanted a versatile shoe that would be light enough for throwing on to nip into the village to pick up essentials, yet provide support and comfort on long walk-ins carrying climbing gear. I required traction and grip on many terrains from tarmac to rock, scree and loose paths. The Hornet HPi with it's array of features ticking all the required boxes, was the shoe of choice.

On the train to El Chorro we were met with large thunder clouds and a lot of rain instead of bright sunshine. Not what we were expecting to say the least. We later found out that El Chorro has been experienced possibly one of THE WETTEST winters ever seen there, with a constant 9 weeks of rain previous to our arrival. As you may have guessed ... the conditions were NOT what we were expecting.

The formally dusty paths had turned to mud and clay with a VERY loose and slippery surface coating, the roads were well on their way to full scale erosion and the ground was at times very unstable. The amount of subsidence that had taken place over such a short time span was astonishing. On our first day out as we passed other teams of climbers kitted out with walking boots, I began to wonder how the Hornet HPi would fair up. 
I was not disappointed.

THE REVIEW.
When I recieved the shoe I was immediately taken aback by the colour. I opted for the grey/green model rather than the black/orange one. It was bright. There was one thing for sure, I wasn't going to lose them.
I had a quick look over the shoe and everything looked great. The finishing was, as is usual with Hi-Tec footwear, top notch. The 'heat seal overlays' (the birght green bits) looked especially good with no stitching or any evidence of glueing. The sole unit looked substantial, an aggressive lug pattern that utilises the 'Vibram Supertrek' rubber compound. The midsole looked hefty but felt squashy so I knew that was going to make for a comfier ride. Top all that off with protective toe rand, good lateral support and a decent lacing pattern (with anti-rust hardware) and I knew that if they felt as good as they looked they were going to be great.

Next came actually using them. I was concerned, wondering how they would perform on this unexpected terrain. They did not let me down.
They held solid in the thick, wet mud providing perfect traction and support both up and down hill, carrying a full pack that weighed between 5-10kg depending how much gear we were required on a day to day basis. The aggresive Multi-Directional Traction pattern performed as well as any boot I have ever worn fell walking on similar if ground in the Lakes back home in the UK. The compound of the rubber worked brilliantly on the rocky areas at the bottom of crags even when it was wet (any shoe that grips wet limestone boulders deserves an award if you ask me!). The heat sealed overlay (yes...those bright green bits) weren't the gimmick that I had been suspicions about, working in conjunction with the lacing system they succeeded in pulling the whole shoe from the upper right down to the sole tight around the foot reducing any movement.

After being constantly impressed about how the Hornet HPi were performing on soft, loose ground, I was eagerly anticipating putting them to their paces on hard surfaces to see how the construction worked at providing cushioning and support when under high impact.

A full night of torrential downpours and continued rain the next day meant there was very little climbing to be had, which presented the perfect oppurtunity for me to take them out on the road.
Now these shoes are most certainly not designed for road running, and Hi-Tec don't sell them for that purpose, but the steep tarmac slopes in and out of El Chorro are as good a testing ground as any and again, the Hornet HPi performed fantastically well. The midsole and Comfort-tec custom sockliner provided ample cushioning and support for the ankles and knees, the lateral support of the shoe and the heel support served well also and again, the heat sealed overlays kept the foot in place. I'm not saying by any means, that the Hornet HPi is the perfect road running shoe, their weight and construction style are not designed for it, but for infrequent, one-off use on the road, they really are great.

The final box that I wanted to tick for the review was all weather dependant, I wanted to know how the shoes would perform under the conditions that I'd originally chosen them for; warm, dry and rock strewn. The weather dried up for a few days, the sun shone with all it's glory and in true Spanish form, everything dried out incredibly fast. The Hornet HPi, again was a winner.
Being "ultra-breathable" due to the synthetic upper and Ion-Mask hydrophobic technology they were comfortable in the heat with a thin 'Coolmax' liner sock. They were also equally comfortable without a sock for throwing on and moving quickly between sectors and for sitting at belays. They gripped the dusty limestone slabs superbly when scrambling between routes and areas and they again provided all the support needed when carrying gear. The performance of the Hornet HPi again had managed to exceed my expectations.

CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM.
I have only one thing to say about the Hornet HPi in terms of criticism, and that is that they are designed to be hydrophobic and not fully waterproof. When I recieved them I knew what I was getting, but it just seems that with the weather I experienced out there, which wasn't too far from a traditional Great British summer that making  them waterproof would have offered that little bit extra, especially for sale to a British market. Also, with the amount of plastic and rubber that is already on the shoe, the toe protection, the heat sealed overlay and the casing round the heel, it wouldn't be compromising breathability too much more to have an eVENT membrane included. Nonetheless I was still mightily impressed my there superb construction and impeccable performance. Plus HI-TEC do manufatcture fully waterproof shoe in the same 'Adventure Sport' category.

FINAL WORD.
If you are looking for a top end adventure trainer at an amazing price (they retail between £40-£60 depending where you buy them...BARGAIN!) then the  HT HORNET HPi is the shoe for you. More than adequate for long trails carrying a pack when the weight of your footwear is an issue, superb for walking or running over precarious terrain when you need your footwear to be giving 100% all the time and comfortable enough to wear all day, everyday whether you're on the fell, at the crag or even down the pub, the Hornet HPi is up there with the best of them.


THUMBS UP FOR THE HORNET HPi FROM ME!


Finally, I would like to thank all the people at HI-TEC Sports UK for allowing me to review their shoes, especially Luke Schnacke and also a huge thanks to Tom Hull for agreeing to take so many photo's and for putting up with me for two weeks.

Blog fans: Report of the trip to El Chorro with photo's following very soon...watch this space.

Friday 19 February 2010

The Westmerian Barometer.

Hell it's been a while since I've tapped away as frantically as I am doing now. I'm rushing a tad because I should really be sorting my stuff for my trip to El Chorro which is only FOUR sleeps away (possibly six to eight if you include potential naps...) and it's almost past my bed time.

Anyhow. I thought that I'd post a light hearted blog. It seems that if you are taken in by the worlds media then there is nothing but doom and gloom at present; the seemingly eternal "recession", the Tories telling us that the UK is falling apart, the mail telling us that the UK is falling apart, the pesimists telling us much the same thing...you catch my drift.

So yes. Light, jovial banter (or bollocks...depending on your outlook on life.)

The blog is titled "The Westmerian Barometer" as today boys and girls, we will be hearing about just that.

(NB. May I add at this point that any historical references may not be factually correct [or fictionally for that matter] and that names may or may not have been changed to protect the innocent and incriminate the guilty.)

The Westmerian Barometer was used first in the late 1800's by farmer's, lengthmen, pit owners and other tradesmen working in the great outdoors, more specifically in the County of Westmorland (Now more commonly referred to as Cumbria after the administrative amalgamation with Cumberlad due to the Local Governments act in 1974) to attempt to forecast the weather for the day.

 
A photo of men being men from the 1800's. (It's black and white so I'll say it's from the 1800's but it's more likely to be from around the early 1900's looking at their attire. Anyway...it's old.)


The forecast was attained by hanging a "bit'o'tat" out of the window of the house or off the side of a cart on the way to work.

 
Old rope or string was often the "tat" of choice.


After leaving said "bit'o'tat" (pronounced bittertat) for a minute or so they would then retrieve it. Upon testing the condition of the 'tat' a forecast was given.

Forecasts would depend on what the tat, usually old rope or string string looked like, how it felt, and were then given in the traditonal Westmerian dialect.

Below is a list of the more common forecasts and the condition of the string to which the forecast was decided;


String is wet: Nowt but a lal bit'o'rain in't'air like.


String is dry: Nowt but a lal bit'o'sun in't'air like.


String is frozen: Nowt but a lal bit'o'frost in't'air like.



String is flapping: Nowt but a lal bit'o'wind in't'air like.


Can't see the string: Nowt but a lal bit'o'fog in't'air like.
 


String is burned: Spots'a'fire.

The accuracy of the Westmerian Barometer has been questioned on occasions, but having seen it in action for myself, I can confirm it is 100% accurate. Feel free to ask a friendly Westmerian for a demonstration.

There are believed to have been many other forecasts that were used but it would seem they have been lost in the tapestry of time. The above are thankfully being kept alive by a keen Westmerian, an ambassador for the county and for the traditional dialect and ways of Westmorland. Mr. Mark "Dez" Walker Esq. is pictured below.



Mark "Dez"Walker Esq. Loyal Westmerian and all round gentleman.

Mr. Walker is often found loitering around his place of work, the Lakeland Climbing Centre at Kendal. Sometimes he may be sighted at various crags around the country climbing traditional routes, winter routes or maybe perhaps enjoying a spot of bouldering.

If you happen to chance upon Mr. Walker, may I suggest a friendly, and somewhat gentlemanly shake of the hand or pat on the back.

You may even wish to participate in a conversation with him about reviving the old Westmerian dialect. Maybe ask him : "Ast e'er seen a cuddy laop a five bar yat?" or "Fancy twa cups'a'chatta watta?".


That's it for now boys and girls, I thank you once again for reading and I do hope you enjoyed what I had to offer. My next blog won't be so delayed and it will DEFINITELY be climbing themed. Unless I think of something better which is highly unlikely. 
I bid thee farewell as I make tracks for El Chorro.

Thanks again. 

Liam.

PS. I'm pretty sure Dez just made it all up, either way it made for an interesting blog eh?