...is going to get sent.
I popped over to Chapel Head again last night with Sally (of the Wheatley variety) and jumped on Interstellar Overdrive to warm up.
After a good preliminary burn and whilst sorting gear for the route I looked up to see the evening sun dropping slowly in the sky, illuminating the intimidating line of choice in a flood of gold and amber.
What a brute.
What a brute.
I truly wish I could continue with a romanticized account of how I 'just felt right' and got on the route, sending it first go on my second visit. But let's be honest here ... I didn't. In fact the truth is, I'm not strong enough ... yet.
Anyway, with the last of the daylight hours dwindling I quickly clip-sticked my way to the top and upon threading the anchor I began to recall the moves that I had memorised from my previous session, particularly the crux; A difficult pop from two poor, crimpy side-pulls up to a sharp and not particularly good tufa, all on typically marginal footholds. Lovely.
My first top-rope attempt involved looking at each individual move and then working it to find the best body positions and hold combinations. Throroughly knackered at the anchor I came down for a rest giving Sally the chance to have a go at working her magic on the thing ... she did very-bloody-well, doing pretty much every move AND on her first visit. That girl is too strong for her own good.
A few swigs on my 'generic energy drink', an exchange of banter and a squeeze or two of the warm-up putty and I was feeling ready for a second go. My goal this time was to link up as many moves as possible using the sequence that I had worked out.
It felt awesome. Awesomely hard, but awesome all the same.
The moves are right at the top end of my ability on rock at the minute, writing this now I can feel my fingers and elbows aching. It's such a powerful sequence, mostly on poor holds; Fingery pinches, cheese-grater-style tufas, gnarly crimps and a whole host of polished slippiness to keep your feet entertained.
I have no qualms in saying that I let out involuntary power screams on near enough every move.
Second session over, equalling four 'attempts' in total and i've managed to stick every single hold and combine every move with the one above and below it ( ... in theory that means I have worked each part of the sequence correctly, maybe). Now all I need to do is head back down there and get on it again ... and again ... until I can do the sequence in its entirety without my foot slipping off a hold and definitely without having to whimper a feeble "take" when my fingers feel like explosion is imminent as I urge them to hang on for one more second.
Regardless of my shortcomings so far I am extremely positive about Phantom Zone. I genuienly feel like it'll go with just a couple more sessions of practice and a healthy dose of power endurance training on the side.
Leading this route is pretty much the main thing on my mind at the minute and I can't wait to get it clean.
Leading this route is pretty much the main thing on my mind at the minute and I can't wait to get it clean.
They say that patience is a virtue ... I don't recollect claiming to be virtuos?
ps. I promise to get some pictures on here soon!
