Surviving the 'FRIDAY MORNING DIP'

It's Friday morning and I just hit the wall more commonly known as The 'Friday morning dip'. It had hit me hard and was mocking me. I could feel it laughing at me as I writhed and wriggled in its extremely unproductive clutches.

I was starting to flag ...

Here's how I survived and how YOU  CAN TOO.

First.

Take action. You cannot let the dip beat you ... there are only a few hours until home time and the weekend ... lunch is a mere moment away. Prepare yourself a large cafetiere of STRONG coffee (i'm currently on a fairtrade variety from Tanzania ... bangin'). You'll need the following ...

The tools of the trade

 
Second.

Put that milk back. You DO NOT want any of that moo-juice in there. Believe me. It dilutes your caffeine hit and it doesn't help you lose those extra pounds for your next hard red-point. Skimmed milk you say? Did I mention it dilutes you caffeine hit? Yes I did. Now put it back.

Third.

Find the BIGGEST mug in the building. Don't have any large mugs in the house? Be resourceful, use a large pan, a vase, a bucket?! Think outside the box. It just so happens that I have A PINT MUG in my kitchen cupboards, this is perfect for the job. Pour your now brewed and filtered STRONG coffee into the mug ... all of it. Yes, the whole damn lot (if you are sensitive to caffeine then make sure you aren't doing yourself any damage) if you want to beat this thing you have to be prepared to work for it.


Fourth.

Drink that coffee. Drink it. ALL of it. Savour the deep flabours as it slides down our gullett. Now take a few deep breaths ...
wait for it ...

BOOM. That's the caffeine hitting your blood stream and STIMULATING your body like never before.

Fifth.

Now ride that caffeine high through until lunch time and get back to work ... lazy git. There's no stopping you now!

 

The author admiring his handy work

LOVE TO YOU ALL

TAKE CARE WHEN HANDLING HOT SUBSTANCES...they can burn your face off! 

I'm not going to cook it but I'll order it from Zanzibar...

...the famous or rather, infamous lyrics of the Tenacious D song, 'F*ck Her Gently' conjure lots of images & ideas. None of which are related to the article below I hasten to add. No, below is not a tale of sexual exploration and lust on the Spice Island. Below is a tale of my travels to unclimbed* shores, looking for something steep to pull on, deep in the heart of the Indian Ocean. And so...

...It's here. Finally. I've promised to write about my bouldering experience in Zanzibar since August last year. Admittedly, I've been a little lax in getting this one from my head through the keyboard and onto the screen, but you know what they say, good things come to those who wait.

In April 2010 I was given an absolutley incredible gift for my birthday from my equally incredible partner Amy. We were to embark on a trip to Tanzania & Zanzibar later in the year to work with community projects that housed and educated orphans in the area. The trip was to last three weeks (...we both wished it could have been longer, but were limited by work commitments) and would spend around one week on the mainland of Tanganyika (more commonly known as Tanzania) and two weeks on the island of Unguja (more commonly know as Zanzibar).

Now I don't know about you, but the first thing that crossed my mind when I found out that I was away for three weeks was ... what about climbing?! I immediately began scouring the internet looking for any nuggets of information about climbing in Tanzania or on the island of Zanzibar, there was (and still is) very little. The only leads I had were two photos I had managed to find, one of a very steep looking, sea battered shore line and the other, an over exposed shot from the HotRock website. There was no talk of locations, or any developed bouldering areas anywhere I looked.

Optimistic (as always) I packed some old shoes, a chalk bag, and my trusty Lapis brush ... just in case.


After almost two weeks of touring and working in the orphanges I was starting to get withdrawal symptoms. We had seen some emotional, incredible and harrowing sights and I needed my cathartic dose of climbing. Even pull-ups on door frames and shimmying up one of the phenomenal BaoBao trees couldn't fill the void I'd been left with.

Venturing into the massive branches of the BaoBao tree

The author in the heart of the BaoBao tree (approx 10m up) wishing he had a rope on (or at least a helmet!)

We had been working hard on the island of Zanzibar and were in need of a rest. The group of volunteers that Amy and I had grown friendly with were heading to the North of the island for the weekend to a place called Kendwa Rocks. Kendwa is known for it's crystal clear waters, brilliant white sands, palm trees, beach huts and more importantly ... it's beach parties. The very conservative, Islamic hustle and bustle of Stone Town (the capital of Zanzibar and the town we were staying in) was amazing, a true cultural experience and a magnificent place to reside but Amy and I were exhausted. We fancied a break. We were in need of a little time to let our hair down whilst having a laugh in a relaxed and more liberal setting.

We were going to Kendwa.

The perfect place to relax. Kendwa, Zanzibar

On arriving in Kendwa we were met with everything we were promised. Beautiful beaches right out of the front door of our chalets, hammocks in the sun, traditional local fishing Dhows providing perfect photo opportunites and a healthy supply of cocktails ... lush. It truly was paradise. Ever the adventurer I wanted to go for a wander up the beach and see what else I could find.

As I ambled along I was met with a steep limestone face, around a metre high, rising up out of the sand. Amazing. Weird, but amazing. On closer inspection it looked to be what was part of the old reef, where the sea had once been many years ago. It carried on for literally the whole length of the beach from where I was stood looking Northwards up the island. The most exciting part? It got bigger!

I wasn't really sure what to expect but this looked similar to one of the photos I had seen. Grey rock that got gradually higher and turned more orange in colour the further it went ... steep but not particularly high ... Was this why they called it Kendwa Rocks?

About 2 kilometeres further up the beach the rock was now between 2.5 metres - 4 metres in height in some spots, overhanging by about 3-5metres. Locals were using it to shade themselves from the harsh equatorial sun, sitting in the soft sand beneath. This was looking better by the minute.

I walked into the sea to get a panoramic view of the rock in it's entirity trying to locate the place where I thought would yield the best/any climbing. A position right at the far end of the beach where some of the local 'wide-boys' were chilling out looked to be the best choice. I wandered over for a closer look at the rock and also to ask the blokes if they would mind me coming back with my shoes and chalk to climb on it. The rock was covered in features and the locals (who appeared to be smoking a rather large conical shaped cigarette) didn't seem to mind ... although language was an issue. After some creative miming, a couple of deadhangs to demonstrate and a lot of giggling (from them) I figured I had their approval. It was on.

I waltzed back down the beach towards our chalet with a spring in my step and started to get a bit excited. Was I finally going to get some climbing in?

20 minutes later after a jog and some stretching to warm up I was back at the same spot equipped with my kit. The 'wide-boys' seemingly stoned and rather curious as to what I was about to do shuffled from underneath the shade and respite of the rock and formed an audience in the scorching heat.

I inspected what looked to be an obvious line up a wide prow. Scanning the petrified reef for holds, I planned out a rough path from bottom to top, there seemed to be enough to get me there. I brushed and chalked a couple of the more obvious holds and began to get myself 'in the zone'.

I perched myself as far under the overhang as I could, found some starting hand & footholds. Took a deep breath and pulled. I was on.

Sh*t. Sh*t. Sh*t.

There is one thing for sure; sea-battererd limestone is very sharp. Very f*cking sharp indeed. However there was no way that I was letting go or falling off, this was my flash attempt at conquering the Zanzibar bouldering scene ... and on top of that, I had an audience ...  I was getting to the top.

I'll be honest, the going was pretty tough, without a proper warm up it felt like I was climbing through a horizontal roof rather than on the 45/50 degree angle that it was in reality. As I climbed it looked as though there were literally hundreds of features that looked useable, it was only until I applied any weight or force to them that I found  most were like pulling on broken glass or would snap off under my weight. My fingers were hurting from the sharpness and my arms were getting pumped. I needed a rest ... this was definitely going to require some innovation; I managed to throw my leg up into a large, sharp pocket feature and with a flick of the heel I found a bomber heel/toe lock. A swift move of my right hand to a large hold mean that I was in balance and in a good position to rest.

The author making good use of a rest on his first problem font 6b+ (notice the very stoned local perched behind him)

A quick moment to catch my breath and a dab of chalk and I was powering through the last few moves to the top of the rock. I could hear a mumble of voices from the crowd behind me and I as I turned round to climb back down ... I was met with applause. Clearly the locals felt I had warranted some appreciation. Cracking.

Well, I was off to a flying start and had climbed my first problem, I reckon at around V4+/font6b+/6c. I shared some moments of enthusiasm and excitement with the 'wide-boys' and now growing crowd of locals which also included some Masai men that had gathered to see what the hell I was doing. They were intrigued, but who wouldn't be?! A crazy white guy turns up and starts throwing himself about on your local bit of rock?! Very strange. A couple of the more ambitious locals and one of the Masai fancied a try themselves and did their best to find a decent hold and put their feet on ... it looks easy right?! I gave them all a dab in the chalk bag, and pointed them at some of the more obvious holds. They realised very quickly that this was not as easy as they had first thought, in fact it was quite the opposite. Their failed efforts simply made them want me to show them what else could be done on the rock. They wanted more, and so did I.

I wandered a little further along the rock to look for the next obvious line to climb ... it wasn't so obvious. The next sequence of (useable) features looked smaller and more widely spaced, following a scoop feature out through the steep roof ... it was going to require a little more thought and a lot more effort. Especially if I was going to impress! I brushed and chalked up the holds that looked solid and hung off them just to check. More chalk and a few deep breaths and I was sat at the base of the rock again.

I pulled on the first holds. Pain. Pain. Pain. Pressing with my feet as hard as I could I tried to take some of the weight (and hopefully some of the pain) from my fingers. A long reach with my right arm for the next distant hold and ... slip. I hit the sand arse first to a volley of disappointed groans from the locals. Crap. I really was going to have to try.

The (painful) starting holds

I chalked up again, gritted my teeth and pressed hard into my toes this time attempting to make the move more dynamically ... my hand hit its target, but my feet cut loose. Not wanting to commit to the razor sharp hold hold (or the pain) I hit the sand again. This time there was silence. Ouch. I had a harsh word with myself.

What's wrong with you? The holds are chalked. You know you can make the reach. Man-up and pull-on.

More chalk, more deep breaths and I'm back on. This time going for a more controlled approach, locking my left arm deep as my right hand reaches high.

The big move up & right

My fingers squeezed the hold, I was in business. I could feel my feet starting to shift and knew that gravity was about to pull me away from the rock. As I started to cut-loose again, I pressed hard with my left hand and gripped tight with my right letting my body swing through. Using the momentum of the swing I threw my right foot high above my head and onto the next foot hold. It stuck. Come on. Despite the awkward position I flagged my left leg out. I felt balanced. I breathed. More chalk.

Throwing my leg up high (good use of momentum) for the awkward postition

Flagging the left leg to stay in balance and taking a second to chalk up

I eyed up the next hold. It was up and left, a weird looking blob in a pocket. I knew this would be a powerful move, from the position I wasin. I engaged my core muscles as I moved my left hand onto its hold. I hit it first time. Feet loose again I regained balance and pressed on the footholds.

Grabbing 'the blob' out left

Sinking down ready for the 'last big move'

One final big move up to another good hold was all it would take. I sank deep into my feet and then powered up to a sharp jug, cranking the last easy moves to the top. I had done it again. More applause. This was great. Another problem done, this time at around V5+/V6 or font 6c+/7a.

I was having an absolute whale of a time, however my fingers and the rest of my body didn't agree. I was already bleeding from a gash on my left hand, my index finger on my right hand had a big flapper and I had managed to slash my ankles up pretty bad as well. As much as I was enjoying myself, I was going to have to call it a day, before I did any serious damage.

Unlike when I'm in the UK or on a climbing trip and I get shut down early by flappers/blood/rain/etc I wasn't gutted, mad or anything similar. I was actually very pleased. I think the fact that I hadn't climbed for so long meant that a quick burst for an hour in the sun was enough to put a smile on my face.

I ambled back to the beach huts and chalets where the rest of the group was sunbathing. As I approached,  chatting with the still-confused locals, bloodied up like I'd be wrestling with razor-wire ... the awaiting folk (all non-climbers) thought that I had a screw loose. They were probably right.

If you are heading out to Zanzibar (for whatever reason) and want to know if there is any climbing to be had ... I think I have answered the question quite clearly. There is bouldering there. It is by no means not easy, and it's certainly not skin friendly but it was a perfect quick hit and a little adventure, all at the same time.

I certainly left Kendwa very happy.

Thanks go to the extremely friendly (and incredibly stoned) locals for letting me play on their rock and also a big thank you to Amy for coming along with me the day after with her posh camera to take the lovely pictures you've seen here.

Love to you all.

The author ... smiling

*(unconfirmed) 

Chapel Head

...the bird ban is still off and the crag is still dry. Hallelujah!

Tonight I'll be making another trip down to Chapel Head, in fact my fourth in the last 6 days.

It's bloody fantastic down there. There's a wealth of routes to suit many ... not all (hell ... what do you want me to do...lie?!).

I don't have any pictures just yet but all being well I'll get some tonight when I have me second session on my project ... Phantom Zone. Beautifully crafted, short and hard...Paul Ingham created a beauty when he sent this in 1986.

I'm going to leave it there for now...not being one to bore you with all the details...but if you do manage to get down there then be sure to check out:

Tufa King Hard, Interstellar Overdrive, Shades of Mediocrity, Electric Warrior and most of all Wargames (Super - uber classic of the crag). 

Let's be honest ... It's all a whole lot prettier if there are photo's involved.

Happy climbing ...

GEAR TEST: HT HORNET HPi

So...Tom Hull and I recently returned from a climbing trip to the world famous El Chorro gorge, Andalucia, Spain.

Whilst we were there solely (pardon the pun) to climb as many routes in two weeks as we could. I had been given a sneaky side mission by the kind fellows from Hi-Tec Sports UK to write a review for a pair of their "Hornet HPi" shoes. After the two weeks of pounding they got whilst we were out there, I can tell you now that they were really put through their paces (quite literally).

THE SHOE.

I'm not going to give you a long list of all the features for the shoe, you can look at the Hi-Tec website for that (Click here to see the full spec...) I simply want to tell about my personal experience with the shoe; What I thought was good and bad, what works and what doesn't and why YOU might consider getting hold of a pair for yourself.

WHY THE HORNET HPi?

When I was talking with Hi-Tec about a shoe to take to El Chorro I gave them a rough idea of what we were expecting in terms of conditions; dry and warm, with potential for long, dusty and rocky walk-ins. 

I was looking for a trainer/approach shoe rather than a boot. I wanted a versatile shoe that would be light enough for throwing on to nip into the village to pick up essentials, yet provide support and comfort on long walk-ins carrying climbing gear. I required traction and grip on many terrains from tarmac to rock, scree and loose paths. The Hornet HPi with it's array of features ticking all the required boxes, was the shoe of choice.

On the train to El Chorro we were met with large thunder clouds and a lot of rain instead of bright sunshine. Not what we were expecting to say the least. We later found out that El Chorro has been experienced possibly one of THE WETTEST winters ever seen there, with a constant 9 weeks of rain previous to our arrival. As you may have guessed ... the conditions were NOT what we were expecting.

The formally dusty paths had turned to mud and clay with a VERY loose and slippery surface coating, the roads were well on their way to full scale erosion and the ground was at times very unstable. The amount of subsidence that had taken place over such a short time span was astonishing. On our first day out as we passed other teams of climbers kitted out with walking boots, I began to wonder how the Hornet HPi would fair up. 

I was not disappointed.

THE REVIEW.

When I recieved the shoe I was immediately taken aback by the colour. I opted for the grey/green model rather than the black/orange one. It was bright. There was one thing for sure, I wasn't going to lose them.

I had a quick look over the shoe and everything looked great. The finishing was, as is usual with Hi-Tec footwear, top notch. The 'heat seal overlays' (the birght green bits) looked especially good with no stitching or any evidence of glueing. The sole unit looked substantial, an aggressive lug pattern that utilises the 'Vibram Supertrek' rubber compound. The midsole looked hefty but felt squashy so I knew that was going to make for a comfier ride. Top all that off with protective toe rand, good lateral support and a decent lacing pattern (with anti-rust hardware) and I knew that if they felt as good as they looked they were going to be great.

Next came actually using them. I was concerned, wondering how they would perform on this unexpected terrain. They did not let me down.

They held solid in the thick, wet mud providing perfect traction and support both up and down hill, carrying a full pack that weighed between 5-10kg depending how much gear we were required on a day to day basis. The aggresive Multi-Directional Traction pattern performed as well as any boot I have ever worn fell walking on similar if ground in the Lakes back home in the UK. The compound of the rubber worked brilliantly on the rocky areas at the bottom of crags even when it was wet (any shoe that grips wet limestone boulders deserves an award if you ask me!). The heat sealed overlay (yes...those bright green bits) weren't the gimmick that I had been suspicions about, working in conjunction with the lacing system they succeeded in pulling the whole shoe from the upper right down to the sole tight around the foot reducing any movement.

After being constantly impressed about how the Hornet HPi were performing on soft, loose ground, I was eagerly anticipating putting them to their paces on hard surfaces to see how the construction worked at providing cushioning and support when under high impact.

A full night of torrential downpours and continued rain the next day meant there was very little climbing to be had, which presented the perfect oppurtunity for me to take them out on the road.

Now these shoes are most certainly not designed for road running, and Hi-Tec don't sell them for that purpose, but the steep tarmac slopes in and out of El Chorro are as good a testing ground as any and again, the Hornet HPi performed fantastically well. The midsole and Comfort-tec custom sockliner provided ample cushioning and support for the ankles and knees, the lateral support of the shoe and the heel support served well also and again, the heat sealed overlays kept the foot in place. I'm not saying by any means, that the Hornet HPi is the perfect road running shoe, their weight and construction style are not designed for it, but for infrequent, one-off use on the road, they really are great.

The final box that I wanted to tick for the review was all weather dependant, I wanted to know how the shoes would perform under the conditions that I'd originally chosen them for; warm, dry and rock strewn. The weather dried up for a few days, the sun shone with all it's glory and in true Spanish form, everything dried out incredibly fast. The Hornet HPi, again was a winner.
Being "ultra-breathable" due to the synthetic upper and Ion-Mask hydrophobic technology they were comfortable in the heat with a thin 'Coolmax' liner sock. They were also equally comfortable without a sock for throwing on and moving quickly between sectors and for sitting at belays. They gripped the dusty limestone slabs superbly when scrambling between routes and areas and they again provided all the support needed when carrying gear. The performance of the Hornet HPi again had managed to exceed my expectations.

CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM.
I have only one thing to say about the Hornet HPi in terms of criticism, and that is that they are designed to be hydrophobic and not fully waterproof. When I recieved them I knew what I was getting, but it just seems that with the weather I experienced out there, which wasn't too far from a traditional Great British summer that making  them waterproof would have offered that little bit extra, especially for sale to a British market. Also, with the amount of plastic and rubber that is already on the shoe, the toe protection, the heat sealed overlay and the casing round the heel, it wouldn't be compromising breathability too much more to have an eVENT membrane included. Nonetheless I was still mightily impressed my there superb construction and impeccable performance. Plus HI-TEC do manufatcture fully waterproof shoe in the same 'Adventure Sport' category.

FINAL WORD.
If you are looking for a top end adventure trainer at an amazing price (they retail between £40-£60 depending where you buy them...BARGAIN!) then the  HT HORNET HPi is the shoe for you. More than adequate for long trails carrying a pack when the weight of your footwear is an issue, superb for walking or running over precarious terrain when you need your footwear to be giving 100% all the time and comfortable enough to wear all day, everyday whether you're on the fell, at the crag or even down the pub, the Hornet HPi is up there with the best of them.

THUMBS UP FOR THE HORNET HPi FROM ME!

Finally, I would like to thank all the people at HI-TEC Sports UK for allowing me to review their shoes, especially Luke Schnacke and also a huge thanks to Tom Hull for agreeing to take so many photo's and for putting up with me for two weeks.

Blog fans: Report of the trip to El Chorro with photo's following very soon...watch this space.

The Westmerian Barometer.

Hell it's been a while since I've tapped away as frantically as I am doing now. I'm rushing a tad because I should really be sorting my stuff for my trip to El Chorro which is only FOUR sleeps away (possibly six to eight if you include potential naps...) and it's almost past my bed time.

Anyhow. I thought that I'd post a light hearted blog. It seems that if you are taken in by the worlds media then there is nothing but doom and gloom at present; the seemingly eternal "recession", the Tories telling us that the UK is falling apart, the mail telling us that the UK is falling apart, the pesimists telling us much the same thing...you catch my drift.

So yes. Light, jovial banter (or bollocks...depending on your outlook on life.)

The blog is titled "The Westmerian Barometer" as today boys and girls, we will be hearing about just that.

(NB. May I add at this point that any historical references may not be factually correct [or fictionally for that matter] and that names may or may not have been changed to protect the innocent and incriminate the guilty.)

The Westmerian Barometer was used first in the late 1800's by farmer's, lengthmen, pit owners and other tradesmen working in the great outdoors, more specifically in the County of Westmorland (Now more commonly referred to as Cumbria after the administrative amalgamation with Cumberlad due to the Local Governments act in 1974) to attempt to forecast the weather for the day.

 

A photo of men being men from the 1800's. (It's black and white so I'll say it's from the 1800's but it's more likely to be from around the early 1900's looking at their attire. Anyway...it's old.)

The forecast was attained by hanging a "bit'o'tat" out of the window of the house or off the side of a cart on the way to work.

 

Old rope or string was often the "tat" of choice.

After leaving said "bit'o'tat" (pronounced bittertat) for a minute or so they would then retrieve it. Upon testing the condition of the 'tat' a forecast was given.

Forecasts would depend on what the tat, usually old rope or string string looked like, how it felt, and were then given in the traditonal Westmerian dialect.

Below is a list of the more common forecasts and the condition of the string to which the forecast was decided;

String is wet: Nowt but a lal bit'o'rain in't'air like.

String is dry: Nowt but a lal bit'o'sun in't'air like.

String is frozen: Nowt but a lal bit'o'frost in't'air like.

String is flapping: Nowt but a lal bit'o'wind in't'air like.

Can't see the string: Nowt but a lal bit'o'fog in't'air like.

 

String is burned: Spots'a'fire.

The accuracy of the Westmerian Barometer has been questioned on occasions, but having seen it in action for myself, I can confirm it is 100% accurate. Feel free to ask a friendly Westmerian for a demonstration.

There are believed to have been many other forecasts that were used but it would seem they have been lost in the tapestry of time. The above are thankfully being kept alive by a keen Westmerian, an ambassador for the county and for the traditional dialect and ways of Westmorland. Mr. Mark "Dez" Walker Esq. is pictured below.

Mark "Dez"Walker Esq. Loyal Westmerian and all round gentleman.

Mr. Walker is often found loitering around his place of work, the Lakeland Climbing Centre at Kendal. Sometimes he may be sighted at various crags around the country climbing traditional routes, winter routes or maybe perhaps enjoying a spot of bouldering.

If you happen to chance upon Mr. Walker, may I suggest a friendly, and somewhat gentlemanly shake of the hand or pat on the back.

You may even wish to participate in a conversation with him about reviving the old Westmerian dialect. Maybe ask him : "Ast e'er seen a cuddy laop a five bar yat?" or "Fancy twa cups'a'chatta watta?".

That's it for now boys and girls, I thank you once again for reading and I do hope you enjoyed what I had to offer. My next blog won't be so delayed and it will DEFINITELY be climbing themed. Unless I think of something better which is highly unlikely. 

I bid thee farewell as I make tracks for El Chorro.

Thanks again. 

Liam.

PS. I'm pretty sure Dez just made it all up, either way it made for an interesting blog eh?

Taking heed.

When I was writing my blog yesterday I was thinking of all the different pieces of advice that I have been given by so many people so far on this epic of journey to hit 8a.

During yesterdays session a certain Mr. Rob Knight, Mr. Tom Hull and I had the following exchange after a discussion on redpoint tactics:

ME: "Tom, on belay if you hold me at the rest I'm trying the roof section backwards. Rob said I should try it that way and he's a legend."
ROB: "I'm not a legend, i've just been around longer than you have."

Seemingly a pretty boring exchange but on reflection it aroused several different thoughts...

Rob Knight IS NOT a legend (in a climbing sense anyway). HE IS bloody strong. HE HAS been around longer than I have and HE HAS a lot of experience indoors and outdoors and with this experience he holds a plethora of tips and good advice.

The same can be said for many of my peers on the 'climbing scene'.

Tips I have recieved range from simple, broad suggestions like 'You should take a rest week.' (F. WOOD, T. HULL, B. SCRAGGS ... in fact, probably 90% of the people I chat/climb with recommended this, so thanks) to the miniscule details like, 'Liam, twist your toe in on that heel hook at the top' (thanks T. HULL) ... which led to my first successful f7a+ redpoint lead.

I've always watched in awe as much stronger climbers powered up routes that I could only dream of getting on (routes which I am now trying) ... I'm still watching, but instead of just gawping and being amazed, i'm observing. Absorbing every bit of information that I can. I want to know how they're doing it, what they're doing different, each intricate movement and detail. I'm listening to those little nuggets of information and utilising them every time I touch a hold.

With each and every bit of encouragement, each tiny prescription and act of advocacy I am learning to focus and channel it, harnessing what other people are offering and learning to use it in my own productive way.

When I finish writing this I'm going to be heading out to do some bouldering and putting it all to good use.

Before I go,

I want to say a huge thank you to everyone that has helped so far, you may not even know that you have helped if I have just been stood watching you while you were crushing a route. THANKS.

I also want to put it out there that we should not take the advice and information that we get from those stronger or more experienced than us for granted. Take what you can get and use it well.

Take heed.

Liam.

TRAINING...

...is going well.

Thank god. I don't know what i'd do if it was going shit.
Just had my first proper session (i'll say first because the one I had last week was SO BAD that it's not worth considering) back after taking 5 days out of climbing.

FIVE DAYS!

It was bloody hard...to anybody who is a none climber that may be reading this, it's a bloody tough thing to do. From training 4 or 5 night's a week to stopping altogether was hard work mentally and physically. My body felt funny, like I needed to "pull on stuff", however I'd been assured that NOT "pulling on stuff" would help in the long run. Muscles need time to recover, as do tendons, ligaments ... blah blah blah. My head was going climb crazy ... to the point where I was sussing out a line through the ceiling of the Tog24 Bowness shop that I was working in last Friday. (I kid thee not...it was going to be a beauty and I reckon it would go at ... pfft at least V16 because really, THERE ARE NO HOLDS, it's a shop.

During my week of respite, relaxation and recovery I didn't stop altogether. Obviously I had to work (hence a little stint at Bowness plus the usual in Kendal) and also keep active.

I didn't want to halt all physical activity. This would have been B.A.D.

Well intentioned, I continued my early morning runs with Mr. Hull. First morning of the rest ... pushing hard...strained (quite badly) something inside my left shoulder blade whilst doing tricep dips on a bench waiting for Tom to catch up. I was angry, and injured. In retrospect, it was probably the best time to acquire said niggle and probably a little blessing in disguise. It meant that I was VERY careful with my back for the whole week. I paid extra attention to it when stretching it out after any excersise, and I didn't push myself too hard during my period of rest. My plan for another three further runs was altered, and changed to one jog and two long brisk walks...good. On top of all that, yoga (utilising my lovely new mat and the very helpful Esther Ekhardt - see yogatic.com) every day.

Yoga has really helped me so far, in terms of my flexibility I feel i've made a big improvement, my posture is better, my core is stronger and I feel more relaxed and centered generally. More of this please!

Anyway, as you will have gathered, I was keen to get back on it, and after one session, that can only be described as APPALING, it was time to get back on it and re-commence the training.

Tonight was my first session back, I was keen to get warm and then jump straight back onto a f7c that I'd been trying before my little break. I'd only had two sessions on it, which equated to probably 5 good attempts. I was conscious that my redpoint tactics weren't great but still...I've got a week before the route is changed and have been uber keen to get it done.
I hadn't done the bottom section clean, and I'd done most of the top roof section apart from the last two moves (which, it has to be said are THE HARDEST moves on the route and my god, they are hard).

SO...reasonably warmed up and very fresh (with a large portion of keen served on the side) I donned the power vest and jumped on it. Trusty Matt Harris was at the ready giving the belay of his life...off I went.

FUCK ME...the time off must have helped. The first section went clean, which I was VERY chuffed with. Especially the lower crux which is a reasonably long pop up from an average fingery hold onto a not very good one. I pushed through all of the moves up until the good hold (which is supposed to be a rest), a positive "jug" (of sorts) which I managed to slip off...and take the fall. Damn. I was pleased though. PROGRESS HAD BEEN MADE.

I decided to miss the bottom section out for the rest of the session and get to working the roof (thanks for the nudge Rob). I managed to do the penultimate moves... after working out the way that suits me best I'm confident that on my next session I'm going to have the roof dialed. Then it's time for the redpoint attempt...

I'm writing this post session, feeling knackered, achey and sleepy to name but a few things... (Still got chalk under the finger nails ... and wedged into the callouses, joy.)

Up early to go swimming with Mr. Hull, and then we'll see what the day brings. Definitley some yoga, probably some bouldering.

Got to get stronger. Got to keep pushing my grade.

Got to finish that route. 7c, watch out.


Liam.