Phantom Zone

...is going to get sent.

I popped over to Chapel Head again last night with Sally (of the Wheatley variety) and jumped on Interstellar Overdrive to warm up. 

After a good preliminary burn and whilst sorting gear for the route I looked up to see the evening sun dropping slowly in the sky, illuminating the intimidating line of choice in a flood of gold and amber.

What a brute. 

I truly wish I could continue with a romanticized account of how I 'just felt right' and got on the route, sending it first go on my second visit. But let's be honest here ... I didn't. In fact the truth is, I'm not strong enough ... yet.

Anyway, with the last of the daylight hours dwindling I quickly clip-sticked my way to the top and upon threading the anchor I began to recall the moves that I had memorised from my previous session, particularly the crux; A difficult pop from two poor, crimpy side-pulls up to a sharp and not particularly good tufa, all on typically marginal footholds. Lovely.

My first top-rope attempt involved looking at each individual move and then working it to find the best body positions and hold combinations. Throroughly knackered at the anchor I came down for a rest giving Sally the chance to have a go at working her magic on the thing ... she did very-bloody-well, doing pretty much every move AND on her first visit. That girl is too strong for her own good.

A few swigs on my 'generic energy drink', an exchange of banter and a squeeze or two of the warm-up putty and I was feeling ready for a second go. My goal this time was to link up as many moves as possible using the sequence that I had worked out. 

It felt awesome. Awesomely hard, but awesome all the same. 

The moves are right at the top end of my ability on rock at the minute, writing this now I can feel my fingers and elbows aching. It's such a powerful sequence, mostly on poor holds; Fingery pinches, cheese-grater-style tufas, gnarly crimps and a whole host of polished slippiness to keep your feet entertained.

I have no qualms in saying that I let out involuntary power screams on near enough every move.

Second session over, equalling four 'attempts' in total and i've managed to stick every single hold and combine every move with the one above and below it ( ... in theory that means I have worked each part of the sequence correctly, maybe). Now all I need to do is head back down there and get on it again ... and again ... until I can do the sequence in its entirety without my foot slipping off a hold and definitely without having to whimper a feeble "take" when my fingers feel like explosion is imminent as I urge them to hang on for one more second.

Regardless of my shortcomings so far I am extremely positive about Phantom Zone. I genuienly feel like it'll go with just a couple more sessions of practice and a healthy dose of power endurance training on the side.

Leading this route is pretty much the main thing on my mind at the minute and I can't wait to get it clean. 

They say that patience is a virtue ... I don't recollect claiming to be virtuos?

ps. I promise to get some pictures on here soon!

The day we SENT BoulderUK...

Yesterday (which would be Thursday) was a day off for myself and it coincided with the day off of a certain Sally Wheatley.
With the weather being somewhat unpredictable and the sunlight hours limited Sally and I decided to make a little afternoon trip down to Blackburn's BoulderUK, the brainchild and venture of Lancashire legend Ian Vickers.

We got there reasonably quickly and without any major hiccoughs (apart from Sally's brief beguilement with having to wave at the Asian man she cut up in the queue of traffic) and ended up at BoulderUK within 55minutes of setting off. Parked up outside the local Salvo Army centre (which looked bery appealling what with all the scum bags hanging around) and headed in...

The set up is cool. It's not a huge spot so luckily it was quiet the whole time we were there...
after signing in and reading the safety rules (which we abided by THE ENTIRE TIME) we could wait no more and got to it.

CRUSH was not the word. I was on it. After a rest day and a good warm up I was ready for a hard session and quickly flashed a number of V3/4's onsight. I was psyched to say the least. Sally was on it too...of course. She cruised up pretty much all of the same problems as I did throughout the afternoon. Good work Sally.

After pottering around on more V3/4 problems I spotted a really tasty looking problem in the corner of the room. Steep powerful looking start, postive crimps and long dynamic reaches to good holds ... just my style! Thinking nothing of it I jumped on, pulled on the starting holds, they felt good. I cruised the first couple of moves up out of the steep overhanging prow and then after a quick rest and a moment to compose myself on a good hold, despatched the top moves through the overhanging finish. No bother. Went over to the board to check the grade ... V5! Shit me. My first V5 Flash. Nearly fell over I was that shocked!



Well, after that I was "super psyched" to say the least. There was clearly some serious bouldering to be done. After eyeing up a couple more V5's and two V6's that I was keen to try we got to it again.

I sent 3 or 4 more V5 problems and one V6. There was also an AWESOME V6/7 problem that ran out through a tunnel type feature. It had a delicate move to a stalacite, sweet hands off rest, overhanging blocks, heel hooks, toe hooks, heel toes, smears and slopers and ... I was like a bloody kid in a sweet shop. Both Sally and I had a few good goes on it...I did every move in three seperate sections but unfortunately couldn't muster the energy to link all three sections up at once...definitely one to try again if I'm back in the near future!



There was also another good bouldering room upstairs as well as a climbers shop (that had a sale on ... oops, might have spent some pennies there...sorry mr bank manager)



After a solid three and a bit hours of formidable bouldering effort we were well and truly frazzled. The psyche was still there but our fingers and strength reserves were dissipated to the extent that we called it a day.



THE VERDICT: Great success. In retrospect the gradings might have been a little (only a little) soft, with the problems maybe needing downgrading half a grade or so. The shop was awesome, the staff helpful and friendly, the atmosphere was calm and positive. I would definitely head back down there for another session of crushing on plastic even if it was just to fall on to the SUPER SPRINGY mats.

Cheers BoulderUK.

Liam.

**Apologies, poor light + poor camera = poor picture quality**